While our capital city, Srinagar, is too sprawling to be explored on foot, taxis may be thought a trifle 'insulated' for some. Cycling, therefore remains a popular, not to say inexpensive, way of experiencing the flavour of the city. Stop when you will, proceed at the pace you feel comfortable with: travel alone or in the company of friends. The feeling of exhilaration comes as much from our bracing climate as from not knowing what you will see next : a row of high class shops or a village market.